Process for lasting shoes



Feb. 10, 1942. A. sBlccA PROCESS FOR LASTING SHOES Filed June l2, 1940 fef 4 f 1 f Patented Feb. 10, 1942 U ET rss

5 Claims.

My invention relates to shoemaking.

The object of my invention is to provide an improved process for lasting shoes whereby the use of tacks for holding the top seam to the last may be dispensed with, thus saving the cost of same and also reducing the wear on the lasts.

A further object is to provide a process whereby the shoe will be formed with a very narrow top which curves inwardly over the instep and adjacent portions of the upper of the shoe and will t any type of foot in a snug manner from the heel to the vamp portion of the shoe and prevent gaping action when the wearer is walking.

A further object is to provide a process whereby the linings will not become wrinkled in the act of lasting, thereby saving the cost of ironing and also making a smooth inner surface of the lining construction.

A further object is to provide a process whereby the top edge and marginal portions of the upper may be positioned accurately in the act of lasting, and in less time than heretofore required to last an upper.

A further object is to provide a process by the use of which the cost of making a shoe may be reduced.

In the new process of making the shoe, I may use a last such as described in my co-pending application for improvements in lasts for shoemaking, led April 27, 1940, Serial No. 331,927, the form of which is also set forth in the present application.

The present process is directed principally to the art of making womens shoes of the pump and oxford types, in which the sides adjacent the instep extend from the under side to the top of the upper.

The process comprises first sewing 0r otherwise fastening the exposed edges of the lining together at the top, or otherwise securing the upper marginal portions of the shoe upper together, with their adjacent edges held in abutment or in a predetermined spaced relation, prior to being placed upon the last.

Referring to the drawing which forms a part of the specification:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe, illustrating the top seam connecting the adjacent edges of the lining together, after the lasting operation and prior to the cutting of the seam and removal of the last from the upper.

Fig. 2 is a side view of a last such as may be used in lasting a shoe of the oxford pattern, shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a top plan view of an upper of the oxford type, illustrating the appearance of the upper after the lasting operation has been completed and the sole applied, and prior to the removal of the last from the shoe.

Fig. 4 is a cross sectional view of Fig. 2, on line 4-4 thereof, also showing'the shoe in place.

Fig. 5 is a cross sectional view similar to that of Fig. 4, except that the marginal portions yof the lining are shown connected by a band of tape, which is cemented to the lining and. extends from the rear end of the upper to the under side of the vamp adjacent the throat of the shoe.

Fig, 6 is a fragmentary View, illustrating the contour produced in the upper by using a last having a more rounded upper portion.

IIJ indicates a last which is formed with a narrow, substantially straight longitudinally extending top portion I0 when used in making a shoe of the pump pattern, and which may be curved by adding a section II when making a shoe of the oxford pattern, as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 3.

I2 indicates the upper, and I3 the lining which extends beyond the edges I4 of the upper, the opposite edge portions being connected by a seam of sewing, or lacing, as illustrated at I5 in Figs. 1, 3 and 4, or by cementing to a tape I6, as indicated in Fig. 5.

The edge portions I4 may be secured closely together, as shown in Fig. 1, or may be spaced apart a predetermined distance, as shown in Fig. 3, and held in their adjusted relation by any one of the means stated above, as will be readily understood. If preferred, the edges of the lining may be overlapped and either stitched or cemented in their adjusted relation.

The seam or other securing means may either be carried along the entire length of the upper edges, or along such portion thereof as may be desired; ordinarily the same would extend substantially the full length.

After the upper has been made as above stated, the upper is placed on the last, but not secured thereto; the laster pulls evenly on both sides while keeping the top seam in the middle of the last, and then the lower margins of the upper are secured to the insole of the shoe in the usual manner and the further operations required in making the shoe are also completed in the usual manner, except that instead of removing tacks from the marginal portions of the lining, as heretofore when removing the last from the shoe, said marginal portions are cut from the upper or a cut is made through the stitching or other securing means, after which the upper is nished in the usual manner.

In the lasting operation, the lining is drawn taut together with the sides of the upper, thus preventing any wrinkle from being formed in the lining, thus saving the operation of ironing.

When the shoe is finished, the upper opposite marginal portions of the upper will incline or curve toward each other and closely fit the foot of the wearer` in such a manner as to prevent gaping in the act of walking.

Making the shoes by the process above described materially reduces the time required to make the shoes, and also the expense in making the lasts used in the process, the oost of tacks, their application and removal, the ironing operations, and adjustments in fixing the uppers to the lasts, as well as providing a better itting shoe for the wearer.

Having thus described my invention, I claim:

l. The process of lasting a shoe including the steps of securing in predetermined relation oppositeiy disposed side portions, originally separate from each other, of an upper having a lining secured thereto, by sewing together projecting top edges of said lining, placing the upper and lining on a last, and then drawing the upper and lining over the last and securing the lower marginal portions thereof to the sole portion of the shoe.

2. The process of lasting a shoe including the steps of securing in predetermined relation oppositely disposed side portions, originally separate from each other, of an upper having a lining secured thereto, by lacing together projecting top edges of said lining, placing the upper and lining on a last, and then drawing the upper and lining over the last and securing the lower marginal portions thereof to the sole portion of the shoe.

3. The process of lasting a shoe including the steps of securing in predetermined relation oppositely disposed side portions, originally separate from each other, of an upper having a lining secured thereto, by cementing together projecting top edges of said lining, placing the upper and lining on a last, and then drawing the upper and lining over the last and securing the lower marginal portions thereof to the sole portion of the shoe.

4. The process of lasting a shoe including the steps of securing in predetermined relation oppositely disposed side portions, originally separate from each other, of an upper having a lining secured thereto, by securing projecting top edges of said lining to a connecting strip of material, placing the upper and lining on a last, and then drawing the upper and lining over the last and securing the lower marginal portions thereof to the sole portion of the shoe.

5. The process of lasting a shoe including the steps of securing in predetermined relation oppositely disposed side portions, originally separate from each other, of an upper having a lining secured thereto, by overlapping and securing together projecting top edges of said lining, placing the upper and lining on a last, and then drawing the upper and lining over the last and securing the lower marginal portions thereof to the sole portion of the shoe.

ARTHUR SBICCA. 

